The Bisque Trousers are the latest pair of elastic-waisted pants I’ve made for myself, but I had some sizing/fit issues so I ended up with two pairs in different sizes. Here’s a comparison of the two for those interested.
What makes the Bisque Trousers by Vivian Shao Chen unique is its pleated front and back darts. For a more thorough review of the pattern, check out this post.
My Sizing Info
My actual measurements can vary from day to day, but I generally base sizing off a 28 inch waist and 35 inch hip so that’s what I’m going to use as a point of reference for this post. I’m 5 ft tall. This pattern suggests choosing your size based on your hip measurement. Doing so would make me a size 2.
Comparing Size 2 and 4
Bisque Trousers in grey cotton twill (left): Size 2. Shortened the inseam by 2 inches. Shortened the rise by half an inch for 1.5 inch elastic instead of the 2 inch elastic the pattern intended.
Bisque Trousers in grey linen blend (right): Size 4. Shortened the inseam by 2 inches and the rise by half an inch.
Keep in mind that these pants were made years apart. The twill pair has been worn/washed/dried countless times now, while the linen pair is still pretty new.
A note for #WaistBiggerThanHip sewists:
Choosing your hip size would mean less ease at your waist, which can be less gathers, less stretched out waistband, etc. To choose your size, I would take into account what you want it to look like in the end.
I made size 2 first and felt like I was not getting the look I wanted, especially since I used a sturdier fabric. The waistband feels stretched too far and the pleats don’t sit as flat as I’d like. The size 2 pair is not as comfortable for me to wear with less ease to get over my hips. (This can very well be a fabric/size combo issue or an error on my part, but something I wanted to note.)
I sized up to size 4 the next time around and it’s vastly different in terms of comfort. The waistband has a lot more gathers and looks more like what I think it should look like. I would much prefer wearing this pair for the ease, but I also feel like there’s too much fabric around the thighs for me.
Going forward, I would personally prioritize comfort and make the larger size. I would consider grading from waist to hip too.
Have you made the Bisque Trousers?
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